Max Mara's 75th Anniversary: A Fusion of Brutalism and Kinetic Chic in Shanghai
Max Mara celebrated its 75th anniversary in Shanghai, presenting its 2027 resort collection at the Long Museum West Bund. Creative director Ian Griffiths chose the stark Brutalist architecture of the museum to highlight the softness of his designs, drawing parallels between cashmere and concrete. The collection, dubbed "Kinetic Chic," blended bold patterns and colors inspired by German fabric artist Anni Albers with Asian influences like cheongsam closures and obi-style belts. The event also featured an archival exhibition, "The Max!," curated by Olivier Saillard and Gaël Mamine, offering an immersive journey through the brand's history and its forward-looking ethos, emphasizing that the collection is not about nostalgia but about the future.
The brand's enduring connection with China, spanning 31 years and 244 stores, was a key factor in selecting Shanghai as the venue. Griffiths was captivated by the city's intense pace and modern aesthetic, seeing it as the ideal backdrop for a brand designed for the urban woman. This choice underscored Max Mara's commitment to innovation and its embrace of diverse cultural influences, as reflected in the collection's dynamic patterns and subtle nods to Asian heritage. The inclusion of male models wearing signature coats also highlighted a contemporary shift in fashion, where unisex styles are evolving in new and unexpected directions.
Max Mara's Shanghai Spectacle: A Blend of Architectural Grandeur and Urban Spirit
Max Mara marked its 75th anniversary with a stunning resort collection presentation in Shanghai, choosing the Long Museum West Bund as its dramatic setting. Creative director Ian Griffiths explained that the museum's imposing Brutalist architecture perfectly complemented the luxurious softness of Max Mara's designs, stating that "cashmere and concrete go together very well." This choice underscored the brand's long-standing connection with Shanghai, a city Griffiths described as one of the most extreme and dynamic urban environments he could imagine. Max Mara has maintained a significant presence in China for over three decades, boasting 244 stores across the mainland, seven of which are located in Shanghai. Griffiths was particularly drawn to the city's rapid development and fast-paced energy, which he felt resonated with the essence of the Max Mara woman—a figure deeply engaged with her urban surroundings.
The decision to hold the celebratory event in Shanghai was a deliberate nod to Max Mara's profound relationship with China, a market where the brand established roots far earlier than many Western counterparts. The city itself, with its relentless pace and innovative spirit, served as both muse and backdrop for the collection. Griffiths’ vision extended beyond just showcasing clothing; he aimed to create an experience that reflected Max Mara’s identity as a brand for the modern, city-dwelling woman. The interplay between the industrial, reclaimed space of the Long Museum and the refined elegance of the collection symbolized a harmonious blend of strength and sophistication. This strategic choice not only highlighted the brand's global reach but also reinforced its dedication to engaging with diverse urban cultures, making the Shanghai show a pivotal moment in Max Mara's ongoing narrative.
"Kinetic Chic" and "The Max!": A Forward-Looking Vision for Max Mara's Legacy
The 2027 resort collection, aptly named "Kinetic Chic," was a vibrant showcase of bold patterns, rich colors, and dynamic movement, drawing inspiration from the geometric artistry of German fabric artist Anni Albers. Griffiths infused the collection with transparent sequins to evoke a sense of light and motion, while incorporating subtle Asian influences through cheongsam-inspired closures, pankou buttons, and obi-style belts that cinched various garments. The palette leaned towards opulent jewel tones, deep reds, blues, and creams, alongside Max Mara's iconic coats. In a notable departure, three of these signature coats were presented on male models, acknowledging a growing trend, particularly in Asia, where men are increasingly embracing Max Mara's outerwear—a phenomenon Griffiths highlighted as a unique reversal of traditional unisex fashion trends.
Complementing the runway show, Max Mara presented an exhibition titled "The Max!" at the Long Museum West Bund. Curated by esteemed fashion historian Olivier Saillard and Gaël Mamine, the exhibition offered a meticulously recreated journey through the brand's archives, organized into nine distinct chapters. Rather than a conventional chronological display, "The Max!" was designed to immerse visitors in the experience of exploring an active archive, where seemingly disparate objects—from Gae Aulenti lamps to vintage pattern-cutting equipment—were placed alongside Max Mara coats and sketches. This intentional curation encouraged visitors to inquire and discover the underlying connections and stories that define the brand's extensive history. Griffiths emphasized that both the collection and the exhibition were forward-looking, rejecting nostalgia to instead celebrate Max Mara's future and its evolution over the next 75 years.
